I’m starting to get excited about this hat pattern I’m working on. I’ve been trying 4 different weights of yarn, 3 in cotton, 1 acrylic, for this hat that would be good for Spring, Summer, and Fall, then I thought why not try a wool blend for Winter? I think I might even have a skein of Lion Brand Wool Ease in worsted to use. One basic pattern, 4-5 different weight hats. With custom sizing, it could be for child through adult. Even though I think it would be a fairly simple pattern, there will be needed the basic knowledge of how to increase evenly working in the round for a flat circle, because even though I will have the first few rounds written out with where to place the increases, it will be up to the crocheter to continue the increases until the desired measurement is reached. There will be math involved also. I will have the equation where the crocheter will insert the desired head circumference to get the diameter needed before the decrease round is made, along with an example of how I got it for my small head. This will be a very slouchy hat, so it may seem huge at first, but it should turn out to be the correct size in the end.
The idea that is the Winter one will, of course, be heavier and warmer with the wool blend. Then the Summer one would be kind of lacy mesh-like, and a little bit snood-like, in a size 5 thread like Bernat Handicrafter Crochet Thread, weight category 0 lace acrylic thread, or any size 5 cotton thread, but it seems there is a lack of size 5 cotton crochet thread on the internet. I have a ball of Aunt Lydia’s Fast Five cotton crochet thread in my stash, but it seems to have been discontinued. I think size 10 cotton thread would be too fine of a thread for this project. The Bernat Handicrafter size 5 thread surprised me that it is an acrylic thread, because it has the look and feel of mercerized cotton, in my opinion. The nice thing is that it’s fully machine washable and dryable, unlike cotton thread. The lacy mesh-like-ness of the Summer hat would be nice, light, and breezy, and you could tuck long hair up into it like you would with a snood. Then there would be for Spring and Fall, maybe 2 different ones, like one for early-mid Spring/mid-late Fall when the weather is still on the cool side, but not as cold anymore/starting to get cooler/colder, but still on the, using a cotton, like Patons Grace which is a weight category 3 light cotton yarn, to mid-late Spring/early-mid Fall when it’s warming up/cooling down but still kinda on the warmish side, using a cotton, like Aunt Lydia’s Baker’s Cotton or Aunt Lydia’s Fashion 3, which are both a weight category 1 super fine cotton thread, in which the stitches would be slightly mesh-like due to using a hook that is about 5 or 6x’s larger than the recommended hook on the label, but still heavier than the Summer version. The Baker’s Cotton does seem to be just slightly heavier than the Fashion 3 though, but once I have hats made from both, I’ll be able to assess that better. I also think the neat part of this hat idea, no matter what season, not just Summer, is that it would be a good “bad hair day” hat. With the slouchiness of the main body and the fit of the band, you can tuck long hair inside of hat, just like you would do with a snood. My original hat that I made about 8 years ago, when I had very long hair, using the now discontinued yarn, Bernat Cool Crochet, I would tuck my hair up into it often. So, yeah, I’ve put a lot of though into the making of this hat.
Even though I will be writing the pattern with the ch3 at the beginning of each round to act as the first dc of each round, I highly recommend trying out the Chainless Starting Double Crochet to replace the ch3. Moogly has a great tutorial for this stitch that includes both video and pictures along with the written instructions. It took me some practice to master this stitch, but it is so worth it! It has changed my crochet life! The beautiful thing about this stitch when working double crochet in the round is that it makes the “seam”, where you start/end the rounds, practically invisible. I highly recommend this stitch for any project made using double crochet! Working flat? No more holes at the beginning of a double crochet row that you would normally get with beginning the row with a ch3. It is totally worth learning!
No photos until I get them all finished though 😀
It’s the 2nd day of May and the weather is finally warming up to spring temperatures! It will be nice to be able to go out in the sunshine and crochet again, but that will have to be after the spring cleanup after the mess winter left in our yard. My favorite, in both spring and summer, is going to the lake at my in-laws house and sitting outside on a sunny day, with a bottle of iced tea, my iPod, and my crochet project, under the trees looking over the lake.
Right now, I am in design mode again. A (hopefully) summery slouchy cotton hat. It’s actually based on a hat that I made (no pattern) about 7 or 8 years ago. I know I wrote it down, but I can’t find my notebook that I wrote it in, so I’ve been trying to recreate it from memory. I’m also trying different yarn/thread ideas for it for the look I want, because the yarn that I originally used, Bernat Cool Crochet, has been long discontinued. I think this might be kind of more of a “recipe” type pattern, because there will be some math going on in it for the crocheter to do to be sure of a good custom fit. I will have the start and the first few rounds written out, so then it will be up to the crocheter to be able to determine how many increase rounds total, by the diameter measurement that needs to be figured out at the start of the pattern, will be needed before the decrease to reach the needed size of the finished hat, then I will have how to decrease and the band/brim and finishing all written down. I would have all of the instructions on how to figure out the needed diameter and finished size. I’m also debating if it’s going to be a paid pattern or not. I hope to be getting many photos of all of the samples in the different yarn/thread ideas. I also told my husband that I need a “head” to be able to do that. I had found a Styrofoam “head” at Meijer, in their craft section, that I can pin cloth onto it I want.
I am also excited to say that my husband (ChaosRaven Cards) and I (by Midknight Designs) now have a showcase at Taylor Town Trade Center on Ecorse Rd in Taylor, Michigan! It’s not much at the moment, but right now I have a few crocheted items and he has a lot of Magic The Gathering cards set up for sale right now. I will be also putting in the case a few of my son’s crocheted roses, plus more of a selection of my crochet than what I have right now in the near future.
I know it’s been awhile since I’ve updated. I have taken a break on the shawls to make hats for a family member. This last hat I am quite happy about and decided to write in down and share it.
My first WordPress Exclusive Pattern!
This simple Crocodile Stitch Head Kerchief was something I promised myself that I would make for my daughter if I had yarn left from making her shrug. Well, I did and here it is. I thought I would share how I made this in pattern format and I though it could go hand-in-hand with my photo tutorial, Crocodile Stitch – Increases, if you are new to this technique.
This is actually easy to make, but it’s not really for brand new beginner crocheters, maybe advanced beginner, if you are familiar to working around the post of a stitch. For intermediate/advanced crocheters, this should be no problem at all to make.
Now also available in Knitsy Magazine Issue #25!
Adult One Size Fits Most – Measures 18″ from center of scale end to end of row 26 or about 42” including the ties
Patons Lace in Sachet or any 2/fine weight yarn
Stitches used are in US terminology
Terms used with abbreviations:
ch – chain
sc – single crochet
dc – double crochet
slst -slip stitch
st(s) – stitch(es)
(Click Thumbs for full size)
Working around designated double crochet stitches, make 5dc around the post of the first dc, ch1, make 5dc around the next dc. Scale made.
Note: This pattern has not been tested. Please let me know if there is anything that is unclear. Thanks 🙂
Row 1: ch3, dc in 3rd ch from hook.
Row 2: ch2, make scale around ch and dc.
Row 3: ch2, dc in same st, ch2, dc in center of scale, ch2, 2dc in end top corner dc on scale.
Row 4: ch2, make scale around 2dc just made, ch1, skip dc and ch2 spaces, make scale around next 2dc.
Row 5: ch2, dc in same st, ch2, dc in center of scale, ch2, 2dc in next dc and around ch1, ch2, dc in center of scale, ch2, 2dc in end top corner dc on scale.
Row 6: ch2, make scale around 2dc just made, ch1, skip dc and ch2 spaces, make scale around next 2dc, ch1, skip dc and ch2 spaces, make scale around next 2dc.
Row 7: ch2, dc in same st, ch2, dc in center of scale, ch2, 2dc in next dc and around ch1, ch2, dc in center of scale, ch2, 2dc in next dc and around ch1, ch2, dc in center of scale, 2dc in end top corner dc on scale
For all even rows, 8 through 26: ch2, make scale around 2dc just made, ch1, skip dc and ch2 spaces, [make scale around next 2dc, ch1, skip dc and ch2 spaces, make scale around next 2dc] repeat to end of row.
For all odd rows, 9 though 25: ch2, dc in same st, ch2, [dc in center of scale, ch2, 2dc in next dc and around ch1, ch2], dc in center of scale, 2dc in end top corner dc on scale.
26 rows = 13 scale rows. At the end of row 26, there should be 13 scales made.
If you need this a bit larger, just add another row or 2, continuing as established before beginning row 27.
Row 27: ch2, (wrong side facing) slst in the center of the first scale, ch1, sc in the same space. [ch2, sc in the center of the next scale], repeat to end, finish off.
Row 1: ch40 loosely. With right side facing of the kerchief, join with a sc in the 1st sc of row 27 of the kerchief, [3sc in the next ch2 space, sc in next sc], across to end. ch41 loosely.
Row 2: turn, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in all sts across to end of the beginning ch40.
Row 3: turn, slst in every sc to end. Finish off.
Copyright Jennifer Christensen.
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This work by Jennifer Christensen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License.
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More photos behind the “cut”